Place a hifi speaker at a set distance on the opposite end to the db meter (so now the sound has to travel through the test product to get to the db meter) play a set track/recording through the speaker ,play sounds with frequency/s around what you expect to encounter (you could record the car noise you wish to reduce). Westy you figure out someway we an benchmark/test it hahaĭuring my home cinema design/testing, i needed to test sound insulation, so i built a MDF box with open sides at opposite ends, (a square tube in otherwords), attach/suspend a db meter to one end, then cover the other end with the test product. So I my friends will be probably bypassing the dynamat, and going a different option. MLV and lead sheeting have resonant frequencies below the the audible range. High mass and low stiffness mean a low resonant frequency. Low mass/high stiffness mean high resonant frequency. A material's resonant frequency is determined by its mass, stiffness and geometric. Mass loaded vinyl is dense and limp - the ideal characteristics for a barrier. MLV is the answer to the question: "How inexpensively can we create a substitute for lead sheeting that will accomplish the same thing"? It's the barrier layer that makes the most difference. ![]() So the sound waves pass right threw like it was sheet metal. The idea if 100% coverage has come from aftermarket auto lines. So for these products to be at full effect you only need a panel surface coverage of 24%. ![]() Products like dynamat and fatmat are sound dampening products, not sound blocking / absorbing. Just to cap the link as it is quite long. It's an interesting read, and has possible saved me hundreds. The thinsulate will absorb more road noise in the doors and space behind panels, and the Tesa tape will eliminate squeaks.Well a pull up on the reigns after parksy informed me of an issue I have been reading. Definitely consider getting a roll of Thinsulate and some Tesa tape if you want to further cut down on cabin noise. So one box if you just want to do the doors, another if you want to tackle other areas. I also did the tesa tape everywhere plastic panels contact, which made a big difference in the amount of squeaks and creaks made by the seat, center console, vents, and steering column cover on turns. So far I’ve done most of the interior panels, center console, seat lower trim, even did the frunk and the big plastic panel under the frunk and main cabin air intake duct. But you would definitely need another box to do more than just the doors. You probably also want to do the tailgate, wheel well liners, and other interior pieces if their thin plasticky-ness annoys you. I’m also going to add a layer of thinsulate to supplement the acoustic insulation on the door panel. ![]() If you place it right you never see the tape and it is sandwiched in place. The other thing I lean to do is take apart the two pieces of the door panel and line the area where the upholstery of the panels touch with Tesa felt tape to eliminate the squeak they make. You should have enough to do the doors with a 9 sheet box of Dynamat Xtreme. There’s already some deadening on the outer shell, but to be honest, I use dynamat on the interior door panels as well as they rattle significantly, and dynamatting them definitely helps with noise and makes them feel/sound less cheap/plasticky, so you’ll probably need about 2 sheets per door depending on how much area you cover.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |